It’s fair to say that I have a love-hate relationship with the cities along the Danube. My Jewish family was granted equal rights here by Emperor Franz Josef I—and then forced to flee by the Nazis. When I hear German, I hear the sweet voice of my grandfathers speaking in the Yiddish dialect. But I give thanks that by 1920 they both had emigrated to New York.
So my first trip down the not-so-blue river on AmaWaterways’ Melodies of the Danube was emotional as well as educational, historic as well as unique, familiar as well as fun. Mix in some culture, some music, some exercise and some great food and wine, and you have just the sort of vacation the well-traveled and mindful traveler of a certain age is looking for these days.
We cruised past the great capitals of Europe, familiar to all who are interested in world history or Hapsburg royalty: Bratislava, Budapest, Vienna. We walked the streets where an eight-year-old Mozart played his first concert, the Holy Roman Empress Maria Theresa birthed the 10 daughters who became queens of every country in Europe, Hitler announced the annexation of Austria, the Sound of Music’s von Trapp Family Singers climbed every mountain.
The river carried us past vast castles and great cathedrals, scenic vistas and colorful towns built on cobblestone streets. In Budapest, we passed the House of Terror, the Nazi headquarters through which 600,000 Jews vanished; in Salzburg, we walked the Judengasse, the main street of what was once the Jewish ghetto, transformed now by fancy shops and a Radisson Blu hotel where the synagogue once sat. We visited the abbey where Maria von Trapp gave up her veil, and the Slovakian capital of Bratislava, home of Steve Martin and Dan Akroyd’s “wild and crazy guys.”
No, this is not your usual cruise—or even your usual river cruise. It’s a voyage back in time to the roots of Western culture and government, music and architecture, wine and beer, and pretzels. For better and for worse, you will come away with a vision of where we all came from and some insights into how we got to where we are today.
AmaWaterways Mainstays
Like all Ama ships, the AmaSonata offers a top-notch staff; a cruise director quick to help (“Your computer is not working? You can borrow mine.”); an onboard gym and heated pool; a choice of free excursions in each city (walking, hiking, bicycle, fast- or slow-paced); a special dinner at The Chef’s Table. The line takes great pride in its food and beverage offerings; all its European ships are members of the prestigious Chaine des Rotisseurs International Gastronomic Society, and the food is high quality, locally sourced and beautifully presented. Local entertainers perform in the evenings and a wellness host on every ship helps you work on your core or head out for a 15-mile bike ride.
While there was little chance to really mingle with the locals, we talked with a local bookseller who is determined to keep her shop (and local minds) open, and with an elderly resident of tiny Vilshofen, who approached us on the street just to chat.
Was there anything I didn’t like? Like many river cruise ships, the beds are small and the mattresses too hard, and the entertainment system offerings are extremely limited. But I quibble. Watch The Sound of Music and The White Lotus and move on.
I will just note that whether or not you are a fan of classical music, opt in for the optional Mozart and Strauss Concert in the Hofburg Palace in Vienna. Since 1279, the palace has been home to generations of Hapsburg emperors and their Lipizzaner stallions—and the sounds of the Vienna Hofburg Orchestra played in these ornate and chandeliered rooms make for an evening you will not soon forget. And have no fear, just when you start to doze off they will roll out a dash of comedy, bring on the dancers, and play Strauss’s Blue Danube Waltz, written here to cheer people up after Austria lost the Austro-Prussian War. You, too, will leave smiling.
Travel Advisors Represented
With 97% of its customers coming through the trade, Ama always has respected and shown appreciation for the travel advisor channel. While this was a press trip and not a fam, there was one brand new and one former travel advisor onboard.
Brenda Kyllo was Vice President of Travel at CAA when she was named the godmother of AmaSonata, the first Canadian to receive the honor. She told TRO that for 2024 Ama again will host its Seminars on the River for travel advisors in the spring and fall; “keep checking for dates,” she suggests. Ama also again will take part in the ASTA River Cruise Expo—and while its allotment of cabins there sold out in 15 minutes after being announced, Ama also will host a post-expo trip for travel advisors.
Kyllo suggested that travel advisors looking to build their group business might consider starting with one of its popular wine cruises, which offer an opportunity to get your feet wet with just five couples. That makes you “feel comfortable going to a local winery to put together a larger group, and then a part charter, which has a much higher percentage of profit.”
New travel advisor Melissa Curtin, meanwhile, was invited on this press trip because of her credentials as a travel writer—but she also is looking forward to sailing on a fam trip one day soon. In November, she joined Fora and added the title of “travel advisor” to her business cards.
“What enticed me to join Fora was that I didn’t have to output a lot of money, and I’ve been amazed at the training they offer,” Curtin says. “And now I think I can really make this work. I’m so impressed with the company, the training, the owners—and I’m so obsessed with travel. I’ve been traveling forever and I’ve been a travel writer for 10 years, so I know the industry. People are always asking me for my tips.”
Indeed, in less than a year Curtin has sold $100,000 worth of travel—including several Viking cruises—to family, friends and referrals, and one client who came through Fora. Now that she’s sailed Ama for the first time, “I’m definitely going to be promoting them to clients,” she says. “I like all the active options and I think the food is excellent.”
Indeed, she noted, this particular itinerary is “probably the best introductory river cruise” for her 30-40-year-old Los Angeles customer base. “You get off and walk around and there are so many options in each port. It’s very attractive for the active traveler. Plus the food is incredible, and the Chaine des Rotisseurs designation gives them major credibility. And I’m also so impressed that every meal has a full vegetarian menu.”
As for the idea of being a travel writer and travel advisor, she sees many similarities between the two. “Both those professions are for focused, hard-working, determined people. You have no boss; you have to really manage your time.”
Our cruise manager, Cesario Santos, agrees that the Danube is a perfect itinerary for first-time river cruisers. “I call this The Imperial Cruise,” he says, “because we go to four European capitals: Budapest, Bratislava, Vienna, and Prague.” His advice? “I highly recommend that people do the pre- and the post- as well, to acclimate themselves to the time zone and connect to some of the other people they will be sailing with.”
If he were a travel advisor, he’d say to customers, “What are you waiting for? The Danube and the Rhine are our best sellers because the cities are on everyone’s bucket list. This is a ‘wow’ cruise, and if you have traveled very little it’s a gateway to European culture and history, from the Hapsburgs to the Iron Curtain. It’s definitely a cruise everyone will love.”
Cheryl’s 40-year career in journalism is bookended by roles in the travel industry, including Executive Editor of Business Travel News in the 1990s, and recently, Editor in Chief of Travel Market Report and admin of Cheryl Rosen’s Group for Travel Professionals, a news and support group on Facebook. As an independent contractor since retiring from the 9-to-5 to travel more, she has written regular articles about the life and business of travel agents for Luxury Travel Advisor, Travel Agent, and Insider Travel Report. She also writes and edits for professional publications in the financial services, business, and technology sectors.
